Navigating the Italian coffee culture right off of the plane can be overwhelming. In Italy, coffee is an integral part of life. From the early hours of the morning to the late hours of the night, you will see people walking up to the Italian coffee bar and ordering coffee.
Hundreds of cafes fill the streets of Florence, and with a little bit of guidance, it is important to get out there and explore. In Italy, you can’t order an iced vanilla oat milk latte with sweet cream cold foam on top. Drinking coffee in Italy is about enjoying the flavor of the bean, and if needed, with a little sugar. While you won’t find Starbucks or Dunkin’ Donuts in Italy, you will find some of the most flavorful and smooth coffee in the world. Here is a rundown of all of the coffee drinks you can order and how to order them: Caffé / Espresso Un caffé is simply a shot of espresso. It is the base to all coffee drinks in Italy. Caffé is enjoyed all throughout the day, from the early hours of the morning to an after-dinner sipping treat. Italians are known to order un caffé, add sugar, stir and drink it at the bar. Types of Caffé / Doppio, Ristretto, Lungo For those who want double the caffeine, they can order café doppio, a double shot. Café ristretto is a "short shot,” making it a more concentrated espresso shot. This type of caffé is made with the same amount of coffee but half as much water is used. Caffé lungo is a long shot of espresso, made with the same amount of coffee but double the water. Cappuccino Made with a shot of espresso with steamed and frothed milk, this is the classic morning coffee drink in Italy. The cappuccino ratio is ⅓ espresso, ⅓ milk and ⅓ fine and smooth foam. Usually ordered before 11 am, drinking a cappuccino with a breakfast pastry is the way to start the day. Macchiato For those looking for a middle-ground between the classic caffé espresso shot and the cappuccino, the macchiato is the drink to order. Starting with a shot of espresso, just one ounce of steamed milk is added, turning the deep brown coffee to a slightly lighter shade of caramel. Caffé Latté Known as just “latté” in the United States, the caffé latte is similar to a cappuccino but with more milk. The ratio for a caffé latte is ¼ espresso and ¾ steamed milk. “Latte” is a direct translation for “milk,” so this is the most milk-heavy drink you can get in Italy. Shakerato Bringing a cold drink to the table, the shakerato is exactly what you think it is, a shaken coffee. Adding a shot of espresso, ice cubes and sugar, the drink is shaken until the ice cubes melt and a large amount of frothy foam is created. Usually served in a stemmed cocktail glass, the shakerato is a cold and fun order. Americano Most similar in strength to traditionally brewed coffee in the United States, the americano is espresso diluted with hot water. This drink is ordered when people want to sip on their coffee a little longer but don’t want milk. Adding the hot water puts a little more coffee in your cup. Mocaccino Almost identical to the cappuccino, the mocaccino is ⅓ espresso, ⅓ steamed milk and ⅓ foam, with either bittersweet chocolate syrup or cocoa powder added. This drink is also known as the caffé mocha. Marocchino Created in Alessandria, Italy, the marocchino is a precisely layered coffee that is made for chocolate lovers. Bittersweet cocoa powder is placed at the bottom of the pre-heated glass, followed by espresso. The espresso is then sprinkled with a light layer of cocoa. Next comes the steamed milk and foam. Again, on top, another layer of bitter cocoa powder finishes the drink. Caffé Orzo Italy’s favorite decaf option, caffé orzo is made of roasted barley grain. Any coffee drink can be ordered with orzo espresso, but it is most commonly enjoyed on its own. This was a popular drink during World War II, because coffee was expensive and hard to find during that time. It has held popularity in Italy. Caffé Ginseng Easily found in Italy, this drink is an Arabica bean coffee flavored with ginseng root extract. The flavor of caffé ginseng doesn’t resemble the flavor of coffee or ginseng. It has a milky, sweet and mellow flavor, but it is still packed with a caffeine boost.
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At Il Vegano, they are rethinking Italian food with a vegan and 100% organic twist. The menu is filled with Italian classics, like fresh pasta, risotto, lasagna and savory crepes. Instead of using cream, the restaurant opts for vegetable based purees that resemble similar texture and feel. Instead of beef and pork, protein alternatives run the menu, like tempeh and seitan.
At this restaurant, the swaps don’t feel second-rate or inferior to traditional ingredients. The plant-based food shines for what it is and brings a freshness and brightness to Italian cuisine. Il Vegano welcomes eaters of all kinds, vegans and non-vegans. Hosting its customers in a trendy, cafe-vibe space, Il Vegano is an ideal spot to grab a meal with a friend. Decorative plants and wooden accents enhance the natural and plant-based feel of the lunch/dinner spot. For main dishes, the prices range from €5 to €10. All dairy-free desserts are €5 each. A variety of drinks are available on the menu, like soy milk cappuccinos and classic soda beverages. With the ideal al-dente bite, Il Vegano's fresh fusilli pasta dish is served with an alternative pesto sauce, proving to be even more delicious than the Italian classic. The parmesan-free pesto sauce is made of leeks, zucchini, walnuts and black cabbage. Combining the delicate umami flavor of leeks and the nutty flavor brought by the walnuts, the pesto perfectly coats the handmade egg-free pasta. Following the trend of umami richness, Il Vegano has a dish starring black venus rice with artichokes, carrots and zucchini. Black venus rice is a medium-grain Italian rice with a deep dark brown color and fragrant aromas. The combination of the rice and well-seasoned mixed vegetables elevates the simplicity of the grain. Ordering the black venus rice is a satisfying yet local switch from pizza, pasta and sandwiches, the normal everyday food in Florence. Three desserts are featured on Il Vegano’s menu—dark chocolate and pear cake, vegan raspberry cheesecake and tiramisu. Creating tasty, creamy and rich desserts without using animal products, like milk, eggs and butter, is difficult. Il Vegano does a masterful job of finding ways to represent the original dish inspiration with ingredients like cashew cream and vegan cream cheese. The tiramisu is creamy, as if it is made with traditional mascarpone. The cheesecake crust crumbles, as if it is layered with full-fat butter. Adding to the high-profile flavors, the plating elevates the plant-based meals to the next level. Il Vegano’s food presentation adds to the experience — simple, modern yet classic. This extra step of care proves the chef’s expertise and care in the food being prepared. When I woke up last Wednesday, I wasn't expecting to be falling asleep thinking, "wow, that was one of the best days I've had yet." Wednesdays are normally the busiest days of the week — finishing saved-up procrastinated work from earlier in the week and getting prepped for the weekend ahead. Wednesdays are chore days. Wednesdays are the midpoint for the work week.
This Wednesday wasn't very different from the rest. It was a busy day, but it was the people and conversations that made it a day to remember. Every part of the day hit a different spot that I didn't know I needed. Like most weekday mornings, I got up at 8:00 a.m. and went for a walk up to the Piazza de Michelangelo. My older sister, Katie, and I have been competing in an Apple Watch competition to see who can move, exercise and stand the most in a single week. Doing this competition has gotten me to do more things like going for walks, taking the stairs instead of the elevator and making a workout out of anything. With a single AirPod in my ear, I power-walked to the most popular viewpoint in Florence. This is something that some people only get to do once in a lifetime, and I feel so thankful that I could be part of my routine for my short six weeks in this historic city. After the knee-jarring trek down, I got ready for my day. As I was post-shower sweating, I walked another .8 miles to class. I was wearing green sweat shorts that I dressed up with a white tank top and an over-sized white button-down shirt — nice leather sneakers on, of course. Feeling confident and comfortable, I left class to a vegan restaurant. I know what you are thinking, "vegan restaurant in Italy?" Yes. Being vegan isn't as common here as it is in the United States, but it isn't as unusual as you would think. I have met a few vegans during my time in Florence, including a fellow Magenta Florence intern, Augustina. My internship assigned me to search and try the best vegan options in Florence for those who come here and have no clue where to start. I was more than eager to start this project, because I have a love for plant-based foods, even though I am not vegan. Also, having a vegan sister has definitely made me more qualified for the task. After a a very quick glance at Google Maps, I found a completely vegan spot that was only five minutes away from our school. I met Augustina and Ted (another Magenta Florence intern) at the restaurant, and it was one of my favorite meals I've had abroad thus far. It wasn't just the surprisingly delicious handmade pasta with a flavor-packed leek pesto sauce. It was the company. It was the conversation. It was the ease of free-flowing thoughts and endless interest. I learned so much about these two individuals, who I have been sharing an office with since my first day in Florence. We are all from different worlds, but we have so much in common. Augustina is from Majorca. She speaks four languages and wants to learn more. She is studying translation. She is well-traveled. She believes that people should have pride in their native tongue and teach youth about the importance of keeping language alive. She expresses her thoughts with wisdom and intention. For a 20 year old, I am impressed with her deep thoughts and well-informed opinions. Ted is from Holland. She is from a big family and loves her home town. She speaks Dutch, English and a little Italian. She favors work experience over traditional schooling, and she has sought after the best opportunities to make that happen for herself while earning a bunch of degrees. She is well-traveled. She has a passion for writing, whether that be in creative writing in Dutch or journalistic writing in English. She is learning to stand up for herself and maintaining the work and personal life balance. I am from the United States. I speak English. I've never truly known anything else. I love writing, trying new things, having a billion hobbies and asking people questions. Our diverse backgrounds made for the lunch of a lifetime. We had endless things to talk about. Comparing life in Barcelona, the Netherlands, Italy and the United States, there were things I have never even thought about before. They explained to me that pretty much all of pop-culture is in English, and it all comes from America. So, they obsess over the same movie stars, books and movies. I had never thought about dubbed movies before this lunch. They told me how in each language, they have voice actors assigned to certain movie stars, so listeners would be hearing the same voice from the same face. For example, someone would speak in Italian for all of Tom Cruise's movies. The voice would stay the same — movie to move, Top Gun to Mission Impossible. One of Augustina's friends is a voice actor for dubbing movies, and she told me they don't get paid nearly enough. They also explained to me that they weren't fans of the typical American movie stars, like Channing Tatum, Zac Efron and Ryan Reynolds. Ted was team Johnny Depp. Augustina was team anything else than Zac Efron. I couldn't relate less. We then compared schooling, clothing styles, work culture and even got to sneak in a little work drama. This two-hour long lunch conversation was the easiest and most fun conversations I have had on my trip. We all were interested in the different experiences that we brought to the table. It was also fun, because neither Augustina nor Ted had ever been to the United States. I invited them to stay with me if they ever make the visit, and they reciprocated the offer. The only thing that stopped us from talking through the afternoon was having to get back to work at 3 p.m. I had the fresh fusilli pasta dish, served with an alternative pesto sauce, proving to be even more delicious than the Italian classic. The parmesan-free pesto sauce was made of leeks, zucchini, walnuts and black cabbage. Combining the delicate umami flavor of leeks and the nutty flavor brought by the walnuts, the pesto perfectly coated the handmade egg-free pasta. It was insanely delicious. Ted had the black Venus rice with artichokes, carrots and zucchini. Augustina had the eggplant parmesan. To finish off the meal and to buy us more talking time, we ordered tiramisu and vegan cheesecake with dessert, followed by a shot of espresso. After lunch, we went back to the office, and I worked for about three hours — writing, editing and reflecting. Being productive in a work environment gives me more energy than anything else. After work, I went to meet up with some friends to climb up to the top of the Duomo, Florence's main attraction. The trek to the top included 436 stairs — first straight up and then curved to the shape of the dome. My four friends and I took no breaks, because we wanted ample time at the top, to view the beauty of the city we have been living in for almost six weeks. The steps up were not as bad as I was expecting, but the view was better than expected. From the top of the Duomo, we could see our school, places we have gone to dinner, our hotels, the viewpoints that we had been to prior to this one, the historic buildings that we talked about in class. We could see it all. Climbing the steps and looking out onto the city was a perfect thing to do at the end of our trip, because it allowed us to see our experiences from above and reflect on our time, together. Then we all went out to dinner, splurging on much-needed American food — salad and pancakes. Our conversation was also free-flowing and easy. It was like we were finally turning into a mini Florence family — making jokes, having deep conversation and reminiscing on experiences. After dinner, we stood in the first Italian rain we had seen and chatted until the sun went down. Feeling full of social interaction, yummy food, exercise and love, I walked back to my room. I washed my face, cuddled into my twin-sized bed and put on the OG Top Gun movie. Since the new one came out, I had been wanting to watch it. I had just the right amount of time, and I was in the movie mood. Halfway through the movie, one of my best friends from home called. I paused the movie, put on tennis shoes, took a night walk and talked on the phone for 45 minutes. Talking to someone from home was grounding and rounded out my day to one of the best ones yet. We caught up and spilled details on our latest adventures. After hanging up, I got back into bed, finished the movie and fell asleep with a feeling of calmness, appreciation and content. It was a Wednesday like any other, but it was everything I needed. After the final weekend of Italian beauty and exploring new towns, a runny nose hit me and so did an exposure to a COVID-19 positive friend. I thought, no way I have COVID-19, again. I had it before anyone else did, had to quarantine longer than anyone I knew and had taken all three doses of the vaccine. I felt fine. My runny nose had to be allergies.
My roommate felt a different way. She was sick sick — body aches, chills, foggy and just not feeling well. She was also exposed and suggest we both get tested. We did. I knew I didn't have it. She thought she did. She was negative. I was positive. All I thought was, ugh, how long is the quarantine going to be? I couldn't fathom sitting in a room by myself in one of the most beautiful places I've ever been, but that was my reality for now. I was almost mad that I even tested, but I knew it was the responsible choice. A sense of fear took over my body — a familiar feeling, one I hadn't felt in a long time. My fear came from knowing what staying inside, in one place, does to me. I had to do it multiple times over the past few years, because of COVID-19 scares and getting it in winter of 2020. After the pandemic, I learned that I have trouble focusing when I am in one place. I always need to be moving, to be switching activities, to be able to stretch and walk and take a break. Even sitting in class can be hard for me. Even staying inside for too long can make me anxious. Being cooped up in my room turns me into a different person, a person I don't like. I become lazy, antisocial and unmotivated. You would think that having forced time to sit down and work would make me want to work, but it does the opposite. You would think that having all of this time would make me want to call my family at home and catch up, but the last thing I wanted to do was talk to anyone. I notified the school, they told me to pack my bags, I did and I left for the isolation hotel room. The walk there was hot and muggy. All I could think about on the walk there, with my half-full 1.5 liter water bottle, Patagonia duffle bag and grocery bag full of random foods, was about all of the things I was going to miss. For this last week of being in Italy, I packed every minute with work, school and checklist items before leaving. Monday was tough. Here is what I originally had planned, and here is what I did instead. Monday 7:30 a.m. - 9:30 a.m. - Internship, touring lampredotto sandwich shops 10:00 a.m. - 11:30 a.m. - School, attending class 12:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m. - Internship, going to a vegan restaurant and writing a review for the magazine 2:00 p.m. - 3:00 p.m. - Internship, going to a women's photography exhibit to write an article on 4:00 p.m. - 6:00 p.m. - Internship, writing 7:00 p.m. - Going out to a fancy dinner with friends 10:00 p.m - Homework until I fall asleep What I did instead... Monday 7:30 a.m. - Woke up and ate 9:00 a.m. - Fell back asleep 11:00 a.m. - Watched a movie and ate 12:30 p.m. - Fell back asleep 4:00 p.m. - Watched another movie 5:45 p.m. - Took a shower and fell asleep 9:15 p.m. - Watched another movie and ate 11:00 p.m. - Stayed up on Tik Tok until I fell asleep Today is Tuesday, and I will have to say that it is an improvement from yesterday but still not great. It's 1:31 p.m., and I haven't napped. I will count that as a win. To leave, I have to test negative, so that is what I am hoping for right now. I know that the duration of being locked up in this room is temporary and short, and it's what is getting me through it. Sitting on this old hotel desk chair with a broken back is making me realize that maybe a two day break from constant action is good for me. I just wanted to document my feelings of hearing the news and the feeling of being stuck in a tiny little room in Italy. Though I am in this room, today, my excitement is swelling. I get to see my friend Rachel soon and my friend Owen shortly after. Even though I just complained about how terrible it is to be locked in this room, it has given me time to reflect on how much I have done during my short time in Italy. I can see how having nothing to do can allow time for important reflection. Being busy can force me to forget about what matters most. Even though being busy is how I thrive, I need to remember that it is important to take a step back and find moments of stillness and appreciation. UPDATE: Tested negative and am OUT of quarantine. I thought that Idaho had the best nature, lakes and trees in the whole entire world. Whenever I am backpacking in the mountains in Idaho, I am in awe of the beauty and am overwhelmed by the number of rocky heights and greenery — more beautiful than Washington, more beautiful than Oregon. I also love Idaho because not that many people know about its magnificence. Not that many people know about the trails hidden along the windy gravel roads.
I will preach to everyone I meet about the unknown wonders of Idaho’s clean and blue lakes. Every weekend (when the weather allowed), my friends and I would select a new lake on Google Maps and set out for an adventure. Idaho was my favorite place of nature, until I went to the mountain towns of Italy. Over the weekend, I went to Lake Garda with the Gonzaga in Florence group. Winding through the fields of flowers and great heights of the tree-covered stone, my face was glued to the bus window. I couldn’t stop looking at the nature around us. I was thinking to myself, there is no way this is real. Idaho was supposed to be the peak of beauty, not Italy. Once we reached our first destination, an aqua blue glacier lake was waiting for us — a lake more beautiful than any other I have seen before, Lake Molveno. Jumping right in, I was shocked to find that it was the coldest water that I have ever swam in (14 degrees Celsius or 57 degrees Fahrenheit). It looked too inviting to be that cold. Knowing that this would be one of the few chances that I get to swim in a mountain lake in Italy, in the lower Alps, I sucked it up and waded all the way in. Everyone thought I was crazy for getting in the ice-cold water, but all I was feeling was bliss. Like I said in a previous blog post, swimming is one of my most favorite feelings. Once I was in and got used to the temperature, I floated on my back and looked at the cloud-spotted sky. Birds were flying above, and I was surrounded by tall rock and trees. On our next stop, Riva del Garda proved to be my favorite Italian town yet (yes, I know I keep saying that every place I visit is my favorite, but life is just too good). With an outdoors scene, small town charm, clean streets, family restaurants and beautiful surroundings, Riva del Garda checks every single one of my boxes for an ideal place to be. Our tour guide, Carmen, was born and raised in the small mountain town, popular for windsurfing, rock climbing and mountain biking. From listening to her perspective of the world, you would have never known that she had lived there for most of her life. She was a worldly woman, extremely wise. She reminded me of my dad — knowledgeable and excited about the breadth of life's offerings. At the same time, Carmen provided sense of strength and calmness in her words. I could listen to her forever. Walking us through her hometown, Carmen shared her most-loved spots and gave us pieces of advice on how to live life. I took these comments with me, over the historical information about the castles and renaissance art. While some of us were sitting and waiting for the others to use the restroom, we talked to Carmen. Talking about our struggles with the pandemic and feeling thankful for finally getting over here, she talked about her pandemic experiences as well. First, she noted that Riva del Garda had a tough time, because the town relies so much on tourism. She explained that they were relying on Italian tourists instead of international tourists to make ends meet, and it was a huge shift in the demographics of Riva del Garda. Second, she noted that people are so concerned with the vaccine and germs. We agreed. With a look of slight disgust, she continued to speak on how people are concerned of these things but aren't concerned about the food they're eating, the food they're putting into their bodies every day. Carmen went on to say that everyone is blindly eating foods from packages, from restaurants with terrible sourcing and buying foods that have chemicals and unknowns. This was when I fell in love with Carmen. After taking The Ethics of Eating back at Gonzaga, I haven't stopped thinking about what I am putting into my body. It changed my outlook on life, and I have told people that I think that it should be a part of the core curriculum. Not many people take the time to listen or care about what I have to say about the ethics of eating, but Carmen was sitting there and preaching it to 30 students. It was fun to listen to her talk about things that I 100% agree with. I could write a 10 page blog post about how people are blindly eating their way through life and how messed up it is, but I will save those words. When I thought Carmen couldn't be more relatable, she started talking about meditation and its connection to nature. She said something very close to (I had written it down in my phone notes after listening to her speak): "Being in nature is something that humans don’t prioritize enough. In Italy, we spend 92% of our time inside, and Americans spend 94%. I even work outside. I thought to myself, no way I spend that much time indoors. But after analyzing, I realized I pretty much did. Now, I take at least one hour a day to be submersed in nature, and I just sit there. It is medically proven to help your mood and health. I think you all need to remember this and try it out." Carmen's reminder to sit in nature has stuck with me. The day we got back, I walked to the top of the Piazza de Michelangelo, found a park area, sat in the grass and read my book for an hour. Every time I am feeling low or feeling like something is missing, I will remember her advice. My time in Riva del Garda was refreshing, after being in the busy city of Florence for a month. I soaked up every moment of it. I can totally see myself returning to this area for a couple of weeks to explore the things I didn't get to try, like mountain biking and rock climbing. After spending about a month in the beautiful city of Florence, I’ll admit that I have a couple of things I miss about being home in the United States — nothing crazy or big. For the most part, I have been finding it easy to get used to this foreign place with new people and adapting to a less busy and less responsibility-filled routine. Homesickness is not an issue, because I love being here. I more miss the people I love, and that’s an easy solution with sending a quick “love you miss you” text or a random FaceTime.
Since I am addicted to making lists of everything, I decided to make a short list of the things I miss most. It sounds like a sad idea, but I just like it when everything I am thinking is right in front of me, in short form. It makes it easier to think about. I started with the one that I miss more than anything… vegetables. It is almost impossible to get a decent salad here. Yes, the tomatoes taste amazing and could eat them for breakfast, lunch and dinner, but I miss lettuce, cucumbers, kale, squash and farmers market specials. There are farmers markets here, but I sadly don’t have a kitchen. The list continues… kombucha, cooking, wearing a robe, giving and receiving a ridiculous number of hugs, summer grocery shopping, throwing clay on the wheel, playing the guitar, singing in the car, yoga, volleyball and sitting on the couch instead of my bed with one pillow. These are parts of my daily life that I never thought I would miss so bad. I didn’t realize that wearing a robe was such a significant piece of my morning. I didn’t know that hand selecting vegetables, fruit and bread from the farmers market would be something I think about missing every time I eat anything. Knowing that other people get to attend the Spokane Farmers Market, talk to farmers, pick out fresh foods and get to go home and mess around with cooking, makes me insanely jealous, if I am being honest. I didn’t know that I would be missing playing the guitar so much. Whenever I see someone carrying one on their back down the street, it takes everything in me not to ask if I can play for a moment. Whenever I am listening to a new song that sounds easy to play, it sucks to not have a guitar laying by my bed to grab and try. Whenever I see someone playing in the piazzas, I don’t watch their singing face, I watch their hands out of jealousy. I knew I would be missing volleyball and yoga. I knew I would be missing hugs. This all sounds sad, because I don’t have these things, but it’s not at all. It’s nice to miss these items on the list because it shows me how important they are to me. I didn’t realize that any of this would matter, but it’s refreshing to know that they do. Listing it all out and seeing these missing feelings in one spot reminds me of how much I am not missing. There really aren’t that many things on this list and some of them are stupid, like kombucha, sitting on the couch and robes. My list COULD be 100 items long, but it’s not. Being here, in Florence, is something new and challenging, so I am going to have things I miss. It’s about finding the missing feelings in a new place. So, I made that my Thursday afternoon mission. My roommate, Chiana, had left for her trip to the Dolomites, and I had the whole evening to myself. Checking one thing off of the list already, I gave her a big, tight hug before she left. Starting with an activity from the list, I chose to sign up for a yoga class at Yoga Garage. Chiana and I had walked past it earlier in the week, so I looked it up online, viewed the classes and signed up for a Vinyasa Flow class at 6:45 p.m. Yoga brings me so much calmness, strength and clarity. I used to hate it, because I thought it was boring. But, yoga is actually pretty tough and makes me feel super strong. The Italian yoga studio was huge, with a long sky-window over the top. When I signed in, the instructor told me to set up near the back, since it was my first time and since I didn't speak any Italian. So, I took my place in the second to last row, near the wall. After laying my mat out and hanging out in Shavasana for a bit, I was no longer missing yoga. I was doing it. The class was tough on my mind but gentle on my body. The instructor spoke about 3/4 in Italian and 1/4 in English. Usually, I would close my eyes and listen to speaking cues, but I was lifting my head every few seconds to see which poses I was supposed to be taking. At first, I felt a little out of it, but as we repeated our flow, I was back in my comfort zone. Our instructor even gave us time for inversions, like head stands and hand stands. Not having tried a headstand for a couple of months, I decided to give it a go, and to my surprise, I was holding it for the entire four minute inversion break. Completing the flow and returning to Shavasana, I felt at ease. Wanting to check off just one more little thing on my list, I chose vegetables. I whipped out Google Maps, typed in "to-go salads," clicked the first option and started walking. When I got to Fattoria Rossi, I was greeted by an old Italian man, informing me that the only thing that they do for take-out is pizzas. I explained to him that all I wanted was vegetables, so he set me up with the veggie pizza — cooked with veggies and topped with veggies. I sat down to wait for the recommended creation. Seconds later, the Italian man brought over a glass of sparkling wine for me to sip on as I waited, "a present for you." I thanked him, took a sip and let him know that I enjoyed it. He came over to tell me that the grapes are grown on the farm, where everything else in their restaurant comes from. I asked about the farm and we chatted for a bit about the importance of sourcing. I was genuinely enjoying myself. I couldn't go to the farmers market, but I could talk to this man about how he loves it. I couldn't cook fresh ingredients for myself, but I could trust this place to do it for me. It made me miss these two things on the list a little less. I finished my wine, and the pizza was ready. Saying goodbye to my new restaurant friend, I waited to open the box until I got to the river. The sun was setting, and it turned out to be the best sunset I have seen since landing in Italy. After finding my little solo dinner spot on the Arno, just 50 yards from the Ponte Vecchio, I placed my pizza box on the table-height stone wall and opened it. The pizza was everything I needed and more. The crust was crispy, and vegetables were piled on top. I took my first bite. I was in heaven. Orange, pink and purple lit the sky, and I was eating vegetables. After gobbling up my pizza, I put on my headphones, took a street with no one on it and hummed all the way home. This didn't check off my "singing in the car" list item all the way, but it worked for the moment. I snuggled up in bed (no couch, unfortunately) and watched "The Good Doctor" until I fell sleep. It was a successful Thursday evening, full of things I thought I couldn't have. Here are the "miss list" items that I checked off: Yoga Vegetables Hugs (well, one hug) Cooking (pretty much, in spirit) Summer grocery shopping (kinda, in spirit) Singing in the car (ehhh, not really, more like humming on the street) Ever since coming to Italy, there has been a huge debate... about pigeons. Some people love them and some people hate them, with very few opinions in between. People have strong feelings about it. I love them.
First of all, if you give them a chance, you will notice how beautiful these birds are. With shimmering green, blue and purple heads, they shine under the sun and show off radiant colors against their gray bodies. Every pigeons looks a little different, too. They are not all the same. Each bird has different coloring, especially on their feathered wings — some are striped, some are spotted, some are all one color, some are speckled with a wide range of grays. Next time you're on the street and see a pigeon, take a good look and appreciate their simple, common beauty. Yes, they have little tiny red eyes, but it doesn't take away from the pleasant aesthetic. I think that if someone saw a pigeon in a remote forest, they would stop to admire the vibrant colors, not ignore it completely. Another reason why I am so pro-pigeon is because of the calming sounds they make. The quiet coo of a pigeon is low and sweet. They never make ear-shattering noises like seagulls, crows and ravens. I think pigeons get a worse rap than these three birds, and that's completely unfair. Pigeons are 100x less annoying than any one of them. In fact, they are even pleasant and comforting to listen to. These birds make Florence feel more alive. Yes, they are known for dive bombing for crumbs and flying a little too close to people's heads, but we share the city with them. Most of the time, they are out of the way or move out of the way. They are trying to live, just like we are. When people throw things at them or try to hit them with their bikes, I wonder where all of their hate came from. Pigeons aren't that bad if you give them a chance. They even add life to tourist photos. I was at the famous fountain, Fonte Gaia, in Siena, and while I was taking a picture of it, I found myself more interested with the pigeons bathing in the fountain than I was with the fountain itself. Dozens of birds flying from one spigot to another, I felt like I was watching live a National Geographic special on the coolest birds in the world. My one picture of the fountain turned into three minutes of pigeon video footage. Ever since, I have become a pigeon photographer. I realize why people might be skeptical about these birds. They are everywhere, and they do fly out of nowhere sometimes, but I will argue that there are more pros than cons. I also think pigeons mean well. They also add so much more to the city than bird poop. They add character. They add color. They clean up our sandwich crumbs. One of my friends is on the flying rat side of the debate, and it's even where I got this super catchy and cool title from. She claims that these birds are a menace to the city, like rats. They are sneaking around, grabbing things and flying away with them. She swears that they have it out for her, because anytime she goes anywhere, they are flying right by her head. I get where her hesitance comes in, but I keep telling her that she needs to give them a chance. We went out to breakfast the other morning and were talking about pigeons, because they were walking on the ground, waiting for us to drop food. When we ordered, I noticed a tattoo on our waitress' arm. IT WAS A PIGEON. I couldn't believe it. Instantly interrupting my friend's order, I complemented her pigeon tattoo and shared my love for the bird. She seemed surprised by my excitement but matched my energy instantly. She explained to us that she got the tattoo, because pigeons are resilient and intelligent. This bird is a constant reminder for her about these life strengths. I looked right at my friend, and she looked at me with a look of okay-you-win. Anyways, next time you're on the street, instead of hating on pigeons, don't. With sore legs and toasty-red shoulders, I can say that Amalfi was worth the travel time, hot temperatures and crazy amount of stairs. I've seen this coastline in movies and on Instagram, but it was even more beautiful in person.
Before this weekend trip, the closest I've been to anything Amalfi-related was my trip to Caesar's Palace in Las Vegas. Tucked away and hidden behind the slots, celebrity chef Bobby Flay (my childhood crush from the Food Network) has a restaurant named "Amalfi." After convincing my friends to drop big money for a once-in-a-lifetime Bobby Flay experience, I booked the reservation. My friends and I dressed up in our nicest Vegas attire, ordered squid ink pasta and splurged on expensive wine. A few bites into our meal, we saw Matt James and Rachael Kirkconnell from the Bachelor (season 25) sitting two tables down from us. If you don't watch the Bachelor, I am sure this means nothing to you, but as girls who gather religiously, once a week to indulge in the reality TV show drama, this was like being seated next to the Queen of England. Trying to hide our excitement and minimizing our staring, we debated whether or not we should ask for a selfie. Three of my friends and I were a hard "no," but the other three were on a different page. When we got up to leave, half of us walked out of the restaurant as the other half walked up to the celebrity couple trying to enjoy their $60 plate of pasta. Let's just say I regret this moment, because I missed the selfie. That was my first Amalfi experience. The website claims that dining at the restaurant "transports guests to the Mediterranean with its enchanting blend of coastal ease and fresh, bright flavors." After visiting the Amalfi Coast, I wouldn't go this far. While this experience was a magical one, my actual trip to Amalfi definitely outshined it. Growing up in Oregon, I've always had a deep appreciation for the trees and mountains around me. I didn't think I would find this in a place known for its blue waters and beach scene. The Amalfi Coast had some of the most breathtaking views of nature I'd ever seen, and that is a lot coming from a Pacific Northwest native. My friend Nate and I stayed in a small town, just south of the town of Amafli and a short 15-minute ferry ride away, called Minori. The dilemma with staying right in the main town was the sky-high prices of the Air B&Bs. Amalfi offered places to stay at $400 a night, while Minori had a whole apartment for $102 a night. We were so happy with our choice to stay in the small fishing town of Minori. Few people spoke English, and we were surrounded by Italians. After a long 5-hour train ride, we were looking for the right bus to take to Minori. I was looking around for someone who looked like they might speak English. I saw this older couple, wearing hiking shoes with nice outfits, holding hands and laughing. They seemed kind and in a good mood, so I went over to ask about the bus situation. The Danish woman greeted me and told me that we were in the right spot. Nate and I said thank you, and as we were walking away, the man saw Nate's Gonzaga T-shirt. He asked if we went to Gonzaga. We told him that we both graduated a couple of weeks ago, and he shared that he just had a nephew that graduated from GU as well. We bonded over the world being so small, and it was a special moment. On a whim, I asked his for his nephew's name, knowing that I might know of the person because Gonzaga is pretty small. He said that I probably wouldn't know him, but I asked again. He said "Owen McKinstry." OWEN MCKINSTRY — one of my best friends in the entire world, my go-to person, the person I call when I am proud, sad or in need of some love. I'm pretty sure I jumped up in the air while I grabbed his arm and told him about how close Owen and I have been since freshman year. I was in complete shock. We couldn't believe the coincidence. This was probably one of the most memorable encounters that I have ever had. I was explaining to them that Owen was coming to visit Europe, how we have plans to travel in the month of July together, and had plans to go to Denmark. They told me that they were the family members I was staying with. I couldn't believe it. These were Owen's family members that I would be seeing in a short few weeks, and I had just met them on the southern coast of Italy. CRAZY. We took a group picture and sent it to Owen. We then hopped on the bus together and chatted the whole way to Minori, where Nate and I would get off. They were staying a few towns north of us. Grant and Louise were two of the coolest people I have ever met. Louise shared that she had done a backpacking trip in her early 20s with three of her closest girlfriends, and they camped on the beaches all the way up the coast. Grant shared his love for fly fishing, and we even figured out that he had been to my hometown, Maupin, Oregon, to fish. Nobody knows Maupin, because the population is just below 400. Not even people who live in Oregon know where it is. This was another small world moment. At our bus stop, we said a goodbye and a see-you-soon. Searching for a spot to eat on the first night that we got there, I suggested that we look at every restaurant in town (there weren't that many, maybe 10). On our walk around Minori, our eyes were peeled for seafood and good deals. We ended up finding a restaurant with a line out the door, and with low hopes of getting a spot, we walked in. To our surprise, a table for two had just opened up, and we felt like we snuck our way into Minori's local secret. Once we sat down, we immediately realized why this place was so special. Jasmine flowers and hidden string lights filled the huge garden trellises on the patio. The menu was full of homemade pasta dishes with specialities from the sea, just yards away from the kitchen. It had a fancy yet local feel to it. We each ordered Spaghetti allo Scoglio, a homemade pasta dish with clams, mussels, squid and blistered cherry tomatoes. It was the best meal I have ever had in Italy, hands down. The next morning, we bused along the cliffs on the narrowest roads I've seen in my life to Fiordo de Furore, a little beach tucked in a small gorge. As soon as we made our way down the old stone stairs, I immediately jumped in the light blue, Mediterranean water. Swimming in the summer and being underneath the water is one of my favorite things in the world. After being in Florence, in the intense heat, it has felt weird to not hop in the river at the end of the day, like I always did in Spokane. So, getting in the water at Fiordo de Furore was a long-awaited moment. I didn't want to get out. Nate did get me out of the water though, just to jump back in it, from the top of the stone wall that was about 30 feet up. I was super hesitant to jump, because it looked so high from up there. I have cliff jumped before, but it felt different. After watching Nate jump and about two minutes of me analyzing the leap, I jumped in. I can't load a video on this site, but here is a picture. If anyone is thinking about heading to the Amalfi Coast, this is a must-see. After swimming, laying in the sun and burning my pale skin, we hopped back on the bus to explore the town of Amalfi. To our surprise, it was pretty small. There was one road that started at the water and snaked up the valley. At the end of the road, there was a mysterious set of stairs that led into the mountains of green. We decided to follow the steps, and the stairs just kept going — long and wide steps, short and uneven steps, perfectly-spaced stone steps. Nate and I kept looking back down the valley in amazement after every set of stairs. We were on the Italian coastline, but it also felt like we were in the jungle. After 30 minutes of climbing stairs through lemon tree orchards and stone ruins, a hidden restaurant appeared out of nowhere. All I could think about was how the restaurant owners had to hike all of their ingredients up here, up all of the stairs. With coffee, wine and a small menu of fresh ingredients and local delicacies, this was a spot that I knew I had to come back to. Guess who we saw there... GRANT AND LOUISE! No joke. If we wouldn't have decided to commit to the mystery stairs, we would have never seen them. We had no idea that they would be in the town of Amalfi or even up the valley at a secret restaurant. We all looked at each other in disbelief. Nate and I jokingly promised the couple we weren't following them. After a short chat, we hiked a bit further to find some waterfalls and ancient stone ruins. After we were out of earshot, Nate and I couldn't stop talking about how cool Grant and Louise were and how we want to be like them when we are older, still exploring, hiking and finding hidden places in the hills. With little time to get on the ferry back to Minori, we quickly ran down the steps and caught the boat. Ending the night with dinner and gelato, it was a complete day of adventure. The next morning, we grabbed cappuccinos, walked to the beach, drank them on the water, went for a quick swim and headed back to Florence. (If you're just getting here, read my previous blog post below before you read this one!)
After waking up to birds circling the sky of my Air B&B skylight window, it was time to get a move on to Montepulciano. I said a temporary goodbye to my dream home, and Chiana, her older sister and I left for the train. Reuniting with my new favorite mode of transportation, I was ready to view the rolling Tuscan hills on the way to the medieval hilltop town known for its flavorful and self-named wine, Montepulciano. This town is the smallest I have been to in Italy. Less people spoke English in this town than in Rome, Florence or Siena. Not being able to speak Italian has been a challenge, not because it's hard to get around, because it makes me feel out of touch with the community. The feeling is part guilt, but it's mostly just a bummer. Alas, I am here and I don't speak Italian, but I am making the best of it. Almost everyone I've met here have been gracious and kind, so it really hasn't been that bad. Montepulciano made that feeling stand out, but it was a necessary moment of reflection after getting along so easily in a place where I do not speak the native language. Our Air B&B was significantly less magical than the one the night before (it also didn't have wifi), but the location was prime, right next to the center of town. For dinner, the three of us found a place to eat specialty cheeses and meats, while sipping on the town's iconic wine. The views felt fake. It felt like I was scrolling through the default MacBook screensaver pictures, in the 'nature' section. The next morning, we snagged pastries from the nearest café, scarfed them down and walked the entirety of the small Tuscan town before hopping on the bus to the nearest train station. On the way from Montepulciano to Perugia, we saw a lake on our Google Maps, located right between the two towns. Chiana suggested we make a stop at the lake on the way to the next Air B&B destination, and it turned out to be the best surprise of the trip (besides the Siena Air B&B, obviously). With just enough time to watch the sunset, Chiana and I left our bags at a boardwalk bench with her sister and sprinted up a hill to the top of a historic castle to see the views before the light was gone. Breathing hard after hustling up the hill, we found out that the castle was closing in 15 minutes and you had to buy a ticket to enter. Refusing that reality, Chiana and I snuck our way past the ticket booth and spiraled up, what felt like a billion, stairs to the top of La Rocca di Passignono sul Transimeno. With a 360 degree view from the main tower, we could see the whole lake, Tuscan lake houses and greenery covering every inch of terrain. After leisurely walking down from the castle hill, enjoying the cool lake breeze and grabbing some gelato, we were on our way to our last stop, Perugia. The main reason why I was excited to visit Perugia is because my younger sister, Jacqueline, is studying abroad there in the fall. She's majoring in landscape architecture, so I was on the hunt for aesthetic, historic and authentic Italian gardens. I thought that if I could visit some of the same places she is going to visit and study, then we could have so much to talk about. So that idea ate up most of my time in Perugia, and I had a lot of fun with it. One thing that stood out to me during my time in Perugia was the basketball court located next to the main university. I hadn't seen a basketball court since I left the U.S. Seeing people playing pickup reminded me of home and Chiana and I sat and watched for a while. It was obvious that this basketball court was nothing like the ones in the U.S. because the rims were bent down at a slight angle, the lines were too narrow for a standard court size and it overlooked the rolling hills of Tuscany. Three things you wouldn't find at a court in the U.S. After sending Jacqueline a million pictures of Perugia and saying goodbye to Chiana's sister, it was time to leave and head back to Florence. One taxi and two hour train ride later, we were back 'home.' Before visiting Europe, I heard people talk about how easy it was to travel from place to place. They weren't exaggerating. Booking trains and hopping on buses sounded difficult, but as soon as we got to the train station, it felt effortless. It felt too easy, to the point where I thought we were doing something completely wrong, but it has worked out every time (so far).
My friend and Florence roommate, Chiana, invited me on a weekend trip to Siena with her and her older sister back in March. I said yes, but I honestly had no idea what the trip was going to entail. All I knew is that we were going to Siena, and I was excited. When I reunited with Chiana in Rome for the opening tour, I figured out that the weekend was actually one night in Siena, one night in Montepulciano and one night in Perugia. My excitement doubled. After the quick first week of classes in Florence, it was time for our first weekend trip away from the program. I was honestly a little nervous to be in Italy without guidance and exploring the country on my own. Having Chiana and her older sister there made me feel a little more at ease. On Thursday, after classes, the three of us headed to the train station. We went to the ticket vending machine (TVM), plugged in our destination and got our tickets. I was in awe of how easy it was to travel so far, so quickly. Walking through the station, I noticed people walking at brisk paces but with no signs of overwhelmed rushing or stress. Every so often, we would see someone running to catch a train, but overall, it was a calm place. Everyone seemed to know where they were going, with clearly marked times, trains and destinations. You could say I am team train now. I felt like I was paying for more than just the transportation. With the train, I got beautiful views of the rolling hills of Tuscany, something I couldn't experience at 32,000 feet in the air. With the train, we got to see the stops of the people who actually lived here and were let into their lives by sharing a ride with them. I felt like I was just observing the surroundings and people for the entire hour and a half train ride from Florence to Siena. Starting in Siena was the best move we could have made. After visiting Rome and touring Florence during the first week and a half of the Gonzaga in Florence program, I felt well informed about the history behind the big beautiful churches, arches and stone buildings. Siena was full of similar architecture, but it felt just as exciting to explore. It is probably my favorite place I have been yet. From the Piazza del Campo to the Duomo di Siena, so much history was held in the streets, but my favorite part was all of the ceramics. There were countless shops heavily scattered throughout the narrow streets of Siena, filled with hand-painted Italian majolica ceramic pieces. Seeing this pottery gave me flashbacks to my childhood. My whole family is obsessed with Tuscan pottery, specifically majolica. I grew up drinking out of hand-painted mugs and seeing the colors of Tuscan yellow, warm red and olive green in a few valuable pieces of tableware. I walked into almost every antique ceramic store, overwhelmed by the abundance of hand-made pottery. In Italy, seeing authentic majolica lining the shelves was normal. At home, having one mug was a pretty special thing. My older sister, Katie, asked me for one thing to bring back from Italy, and it was a hand-painted Italian majolica mug. I knew that Siena was place I had to get it. Chiana and her older sister were definitely confused by my excitement when we turned the corner to see yet ANOTHER ceramic shop, after walking through 11 other ones that day. Adding to the Siena experience, the Air B&B we stayed in was dream apartment. We met the Air B&B host outside of the apartment, and he showed us up the stairs and into the place. In the way he was talking about the space, even before we entered it, I could tell that he had so much passion and pride in the space he curated for others. I walked in, instantly fell in love and already felt the sadness of having to leave the next morning. The L-shaped, top-floor apartment had high wooden ceilings with white walls. There were 12 windows. As I walked through the place, I was opening a new window every few feet and accepting the natural light and breeze. The kitchen, dining room and living room shared one open space next to the corner of windows that opened out to a courtyard filled with lush green trees, that you couldn't see from the street, and a view that overlooked the Tuscan rooftops. Even the small details felt just right, like the large, vintage wooden table with four chairs surrounding it. Each chair was different, and I assume that each chair had its own story. Each piece of furniture matched, but each piece was unique. Another detail that made me fall in love was the stained glass in the hallway. The way that the light came through the colorful glass changed throughout the day, giving the hall life. After the host proudly showed us around, he took the three of us to the living room area and pointed out a tiny skylight window in the ceiling. He told us that the best place to sleep is on the couch, under the window, under the stars. The excitement and urgency in his voice for one of us to experience this was so cute, so I told him that I would drag the couch under the skylight and sleep under the stars. He smiled. I wrote this down in the notes in my phone after the host left... "This place makes me feel more at home than any home I have ever lived in. I feel so attached to it, like it's already mine. I know it's not, but I have a feeling I will come back to it." I know that sounds so dramatic, but that is exactly how I was feeling. And that night in Siena, on my first trip in Europe 'alone,' I slept under the stars. |
Allie's BlogHere's a bunch of random writing—articles that didn't make it online, random thoughts, updates on life, old memories, etc. |